The original Ninja Creami gained widespread popularity a few years ago by taking technology from $5,000 commercial ice cream makers and turning it into something that could be purchased for under $200. Although the Creami excels at creating sorbets, gelatos, and smoothie bowls, there is one classic frozen treat it cannot make: soft serve. However, with the introduction of the Swirl by Creami, Ninja may have just created the ultimate all-in-one home ice cream machine.
Design and features
Rather than designing a new, multi-purpose device from scratch, Ninja essentially took the existing Creami and attached a soft serve module to the side. Additionally, a large handle was added, allowing users to still experience the physical sensation of pulling it down to dispense their icy creation.
While this approach may seem somewhat crude in terms of design, let’s be honest – the Swirl isn’t going to win any beauty contests. More importantly, it’s a straightforward and effective method. This is because when you’re not making soft serve, you can simply spin a batch of regular ice cream with one of the machine’s two included pint containers. However, if you’re aiming for something smooth and fluffy, the process becomes slightly more complicated.
While the Ninja Swirl is more expensive and bulkier than the standard Creami, the ability to make soft serve and practically every other type of ice cream at home feels like a dream come true.
Pros
- Excellent soft serve capabilities
- Updated ice cream settings
- Quieter
- Physical dispensing handle
Cons
- More expensive than the original Creami
- Bigger and bulkier design
- No deluxe-sized model
In addition to the standard paddle lid, the Swirl has a special top that must be used when making soft serve. The machine uses a new pint container that features a clever but somewhat tricky built-in nozzle for dispensing the soft serve. To use it for traditional scooped desserts, the twist cap on the bottom must be kept closed, but it should be open for soft-serve. It’s crucial to remember this, as failing to seal it all the way while freezing the ice cream base will cause it to get stuck. This is problematic because the container won’t fit in the machine unless the pint is fully closed, so you’ll have to chip away at the stuck parts until it does. Unfortunately, the classic Creami pints cannot be used if you’re not planning on making soft serve, as they are not compatible (although the Swirl’s lids and containers are dishwasher safe, just like before).
A potential issue with the Swirl’s design, particularly for those living in apartments or small kitchens, is its size and weight. It measures 15.1 x 10 x 17.5 inches and weighs 20 pounds, making it about twice as large and heavy as a standard Creami. This means you’ll need to find a decently large space to store it, unless you live in a mansion, as it won’t fit on your countertop.
Modes: The world is your ice cream
The Swirl is capable of performing almost every function the Creami can, and more. This is due to the addition of new options for frozen yogurt, fruit whip, frozen custard, and so-called Creamifits, on top of the standard ice cream, lite ice cream, gelato, sorbet, and milkshake modes.
While most of these modes are self-explanatory, a few warrant further explanation. Fruit whips, for example, are primarily made of frozen fruit with a bit of sugar and are blended into something similar to a healthier sorbet. The dedicated mode for frozen custard is also a welcome addition, as it is often richer and creamier than traditional ice cream due to the inclusion of additional egg yolks. Furthermore, Creamifit is a term for high-protein concoctions that frequently feature ingredients like whey, cottage cheese, or Greek yogurt, effectively turning workout shakes into frozen treats.
When preparing to make a batch, Ninja simplified the process by dividing the machine’s functions into two primary categories: one for regular scooped treats and one for soft serve. One setting that’s not available is the smoothie bowl option, which can be found on older models. However, this omission isn’t a significant issue, as depending on the desired texture, the milkshake or Creamifit settings can serve as viable alternatives.
The Swirl also features updated blending modes from Ninja, which ensure the right consistency without requiring re-spinning. During my testing, I found this to be accurate, as I no longer needed to put ice cream in for a second go before achieving the desired consistency. This applies to both soft serve and regular scooped desserts. Additionally, the Swirl operates more quietly, producing around 80 decibels from a distance of six feet, compared to the basic Creami, which reaches approximately 82 decibels.
Soft serve: Tasting is believing
Provided you can handle the Swirl’s more complex process, the rewards are well worth it. This machine is indeed capable of producing soft serve that rivals what you can buy from a store, and potentially even surpasses it in quality because you have control over the ingredients. While you can follow recipes, the magic of the Swirl lies in its ability to transform almost any combination of ingredients into a divine-tasting treat, as long as you adhere to a few basic guidelines.
For my first test batch, I decided to minimize food waste by using old strawberries and pineapple chunks that would have otherwise been discarded. I diced them up, added a splash of lime juice, and mixed everything with a third of a cup of sugar. After allowing the fruit to macerate for a bit, I placed it in the Swirl’s pint container and froze it overnight. The next day, I set the machine to the fruit whip setting, spun it, and then swapped in Ninja’s soft serve lid before pulling down on the handle. The result was nothing short of exceptional.
The fruit whip had a super smooth consistency without any large ice crystals, and the flavor was reminiscent of a tropical fruit bowl exploding in my mouth. The best part is that it was essentially free to make, as the ingredients would have otherwise been thrown away in many households.
Next, I made some basic chocolate soft serve using this recipe from Ninja’s Test Kitchen. Instead of using regular whole milk, heavy cream, and cocoa powder, I substituted Fairlife chocolate milk, which not only increased the protein content but is also lactose-free. The result was a super fluffy soft serve with an almost marshmallow-like texture that everyone in my family enjoyed, including my lactose-intolerant wife.
After that, I experimented with another recipe by chopping up some maraschino cherries and adding them, along with their syrup, to some Fairlife milk and coconut cream. To ensure a light and velvety texture, I also added a quarter teaspoon of xanthan gum to the mixture. I blended everything as normal, pulled down the lever, and voila: a rich and dense yet not heavy cherries and cream treat.
Perhaps my most rewarding creation, however, was a matcha soft serve that was the best I’ve ever had. My wife drinks matcha daily, and over the years, she’s turned me into a bit of a matcha connoisseur. I can immediately tell when places like Starbucks use low-quality powder that tastes like day-old grass clippings. By combining decent ceremonial matcha with lactose-free milk and cream using this recipe, I was able to make her soft serve with unmatched taste and texture. This is normally incredibly difficult to find, as most ice cream shops don’t offer many non-dairy options.
Making homemade soft serve is akin to finding the holy grail of ice cream. Machines that churn desserts have been around for years, and there was even one built into the counter in my grandma’s old house. However, soft serve often requires specialized equipment that’s prohibitively expensive to own, especially since these are single-purpose machines. Ninja has changed this with the Swirl, which can create delicious concoctions that rival store-bought soft serve, and can handle almost any other frozen treat you can think of, all in one device.
That being said, there are a few drawbacks to the Swirl. One issue is that making soft serve results in about a quarter cup of ice cream getting stuck inside various components, such as the space between the bottom of the pint and the nozzle. This isn’t a significant problem, but if you’re trying to reduce food waste by turning leftovers into dessert, it’s a bit unfortunate. The Swirl is also large and bulky, and at $350, it’s nearly twice the price of a standard Creami.
My biggest complaint is that the Swirl isn’t available in a deluxe size, like its predecessor. A pint of ice cream is sufficient for a couple of people, but if you’re making soft serve for a crowd, the Swirl’s 16-ounce containers mean you’ll have to spin up a second batch. And with the Swirl’s pints and lids costing $35 a pair, that’s an added expense if you plan on using this for entertaining. When asked, Ninja declined to comment on whether a larger model is in the works, but I would be surprised if a deluxe version doesn’t appear at some point. Therefore, if you like what the Swirl can do but want a machine with more capacity, you may want to wait for now.
The final issue is that with the Swirl launching just a couple of years after the Creami came out, some people may be feeling buyer’s remorse about the original. I don’t see it that way, though. The previous model is still a surprisingly versatile device that’s affordable and doesn’t take up a lot of space in your kitchen. While the Swirl adds a major but not essential branch of desserts to its repertoire, it also brings with it a higher cost and added complexity. However, for anyone who has fond memories of enjoying a silky smooth frozen cone on a hot summer’s day, the Ninja Swirl is bringing that magic into your kitchen in a way we haven’t seen before.
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