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The original Ninja Creami gained widespread popularity a few years ago by taking technology from $5,000 commercial ice cream makers and turning it into something that could be purchased for under $200. Although the Creami excels at creating sorbets, gelatos, and smoothie bowls, there is one classic frozen treat it cannot make: soft serve. However, with the introduction of the Swirl by Creami, Ninja may have just created the ultimate all-in-one home ice cream machine.

Rather than designing a new, multi-purpose device from scratch, Ninja essentially took the existing Creami and attached a soft serve module to the side. Additionally, a large handle was added, allowing users to still experience the physical sensation of pulling it down to dispense their icy creation.

While this approach may seem somewhat crude in terms of design, let’s be honest – the Swirl isn’t going to win any beauty contests. More importantly, it’s a straightforward and effective method. This is because when you’re not making soft serve, you can simply spin a batch of regular ice cream with one of the machine’s two included pint containers. However, if you’re aiming for something smooth and fluffy, the process becomes slightly more complicated.


Image for the large product module

Engadget

While the Ninja Swirl is more expensive and bulkier than the standard Creami, the ability to make soft serve and practically every other type of ice cream at home feels like a dream come true.



Pros

  • Excellent soft serve capabilities
  • Updated ice cream settings
  • Quieter
  • Physical dispensing handle


Cons

  • More expensive than the original Creami
  • Bigger and bulkier design
  • No deluxe-sized model

$350 at Amazon

In addition to the standard paddle lid, the Swirl has a special top that must be used when making soft serve. The machine uses a new pint container that features a clever but somewhat tricky built-in nozzle for dispensing the soft serve. To use it for traditional scooped desserts, the twist cap on the bottom must be kept closed, but it should be open for soft-serve. It’s crucial to remember this, as failing to seal it all the way while freezing the ice cream base will cause it to get stuck. This is problematic because the container won’t fit in the machine unless the pint is fully closed, so you’ll have to chip away at the stuck parts until it does. Unfortunately, the classic Creami pints cannot be used if you’re not planning on making soft serve, as they are not compatible (although the Swirl’s lids and containers are dishwasher safe, just like before).

A potential issue with the Swirl’s design, particularly for those living in apartments or small kitchens, is its size and weight. It measures 15.1 x 10 x 17.5 inches and weighs 20 pounds, making it about twice as large and heavy as a standard Creami. This means you’ll need to find a decently large space to store it, unless you live in a mansion, as it won’t fit on your countertop.

On top of new soft serve modes, the Ninja Swirl can still make all the same types of ice creams as the original Creami.
On top of new soft serve modes, the Ninja Swirl can still make all the same types of ice creams as the original Creami.

Sam Rutherford for Engadget

The Swirl is capable of performing almost every function the Creami can, and more. This is due to the addition of new options for frozen yogurt, fruit whip, frozen custard, and so-called Creamifits, on top of the standard ice cream, lite ice cream, gelato, sorbet, and milkshake modes.

While most of these modes are self-explanatory, a few warrant further explanation. Fruit whips, for example, are primarily made of frozen fruit with a bit of sugar and are blended into something similar to a healthier sorbet. The dedicated mode for frozen custard is also a welcome addition, as it is often richer and creamier than traditional ice cream due to the inclusion of additional egg yolks. Furthermore, Creamifit is a term for high-protein concoctions that frequently feature ingredients like whey, cottage cheese, or Greek yogurt, effectively turning workout shakes into frozen treats.

The Swirl has a handy retractable drip tray.
The Swirl has a handy retractable drip tray.

Sam Rutherford for Engadget

When preparing to make a batch, Ninja simplified the process by dividing the machine’s functions into two primary categories: one for regular scooped treats and one for soft serve. One setting that’s not available is the smoothie bowl option, which can be found on older models. However, this omission isn’t a significant issue, as depending on the desired texture, the milkshake or Creamifit settings can serve as viable alternatives.

The Swirl also features updated blending modes from Ninja, which ensure the right consistency without requiring re-spinning. During my testing, I found this to be accurate, as I no longer needed to put ice cream in for a second go before achieving the desired consistency. This applies to both soft serve and regular scooped desserts. Additionally, the Swirl operates more quietly, producing around 80 decibels from a distance of six feet, compared to the basic Creami, which reaches approximately 82 decibels.

If you want to make soft serve, after using the standard paddle lid (left) to spin your ice cream base, you'll need to attach Ninja's dedicated soft serve lid (right) before slotting the entire pint into the opening on the left side of the machine.
If you want to make soft serve, after using the standard paddle lid (left) to spin your ice cream base, you'll need to attach Ninja's dedicated soft serve lid (right) before slotting the entire pint into the opening on the left side of the machine.

If you want to make soft serve, after using the standard paddle lid (left) to spin your ice cream base, you’ll need to attach Ninja’s dedicated soft serve lid (right) before slotting the entire pint into the opening on the left side of the machine. (Sam Rutherford for Engadget)

Provided you can handle the Swirl’s more complex process, the rewards are well worth it. This machine is indeed capable of producing soft serve that rivals what you can buy from a store, and potentially even surpasses it in quality because you have control over the ingredients. While you can follow recipes, the magic of the Swirl lies in its ability to transform almost any combination of ingredients into a divine-tasting treat, as long as you adhere to a few basic guidelines.

For my first test batch, I decided to minimize food waste by using old strawberries and pineapple chunks that would have otherwise been discarded. I diced them up, added a splash of lime juice, and mixed everything with a third of a cup of sugar. After allowing the fruit to macerate for a bit, I placed it in the Swirl’s pint container and froze it overnight. The next day, I set the machine to the fruit whip setting, spun it, and then swapped in Ninja’s soft serve lid before pulling down on the handle. The result was nothing short of exceptional.

To dispense your soft serve, you'll need to slot the entire pint into the machine. Just don't forget to open the bottom of the container so ice cream can flow out of the built-in nozzle.
To dispense your soft serve, you'll need to slot the entire pint into the machine. Just don't forget to open the bottom of the container so ice cream can flow out of the built-in nozzle.

Sam Rutherford for Engadget

The fruit whip had a super smooth consistency without any large ice crystals, and the flavor was reminiscent of a tropical fruit bowl exploding in my mouth. The best part is that it was essentially free to make, as the ingredients would have otherwise been thrown away in many households.

Next, I made some basic chocolate soft serve using this recipe from Ninja’s Test Kitchen. Instead of using regular whole milk, heavy cream, and cocoa powder, I substituted Fairlife chocolate milk, which not only increased the protein content but is also lactose-free. The result was a super fluffy soft serve with an almost marshmallow-like texture that everyone in my family enjoyed, including my lactose-intolerant wife.


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